The Dilli: Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas

My time in Nepal was spectacular.

The Annapurna Sanctuary, home to dozens of famous peaks, is a kind of paradise. With gargantuan white peaks and clouds above, the ultra-steep valleys of the foothills are animated by rushing streams and fast moving micro-storms that produce sun-showers and rainbows galore. Blooming rhododendrons are everywhere, their pink petals falling into circular plots on the ancient slate footpaths that meander up the stepped paddy fields, past farmhouses and remote mountain villages.

Those villages are inhabited by smiley Nepalis and Tibetans who, especially this time of year, depend on travelers to bolster their subsistence farming income. Tea houses with simple accommodations, good food and even chocolate bars are easy to find throughout the region, making it so easy to enjoy trekking without worrying too much about logistics. There are lots of foreign travelers trekking in this region, and for good reason. But if you choose a route off the main guided paths, its easy to not pass any other trekkers for hours on end.

I have always enjoyed walking alone, I think my summers at hippy camp, West Virgnia instilled something in me. But walking alone for hours in the thrilling topography of the Annapurna foothills was close to transcendent.

On that note, let me step back: after Varanasi I had spent some time in Gokhapur, the town where the Buddha died. Gokhapur is located in modern-day northeastern Uttar Pradesh state. It is a fairly nondescript town, off the backpacker routes, and exists at a comfortable slow pace (or maybe its just that I was coming from Varanasi crazyland). At the outskirts of the town there are several monasteries, many of which have compounds equipped to host pilgrims from abroad. most of the monasteries are affiliated with specific countries -- Japan, Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Sri Lanka -- all the major Bhuddist countries are represented.

I stayed in the Vietnamese monastery compound and was the only non-monk there. But unfortunately the language barrier was high and I really didn't have much ability to interact at a meaningful level. I did however spend the better part of one day in the Thai Bhuddist compound where hundreds of Thai pilgrims were staying. Conversations comparing my Judaism with their Bhuddism flowed. I regret not having any pictures of little old me sitting there in a courtyard among what must have been 250 Thai men, women and children all wearing matching white jumpsuits.

I went to Gokhapur because I thought it would be a relaxed place to chill out and read. I had picked up some good books on bhuddism, zen and meditation but after some time there, I wanted to head to the mountains. In the mountains those books made more sense somehow. Heart pounding, legs throbbing... mind still. Notice every detail of the beauty around, and then let it pass without a second thought.

That was a pensive post. To make up for it and not put you all to sleep, I am calling the next post "HOLI GUACAMOLE!" Also meet some of my Annapurna company:

My Guide Studying the Map

Me, a sweet '76 Toyota Carolla taxi and my occasional guide, Madhu, who looks and acts strikingly similar to John Belushi in Animal House. An international player of first rate, ladies from Switzerland to Nepal know him as Gingerhoney.