Varanasi Part I

After five days here, I am conflicted about even writing this post. Varanasi will be hard to convey in words or pictures. If India is an "assault on the senses," Varanasi is D-day.

The city revolves around the famous Ghats, or "steps" that line the banks of the Ganges River. this is the holiest site in Hinduism and the place where Hindus hope to die or at least have their ashes spread.

The Ganges at Varanasi is many things. It is unmistakably mystical in the quiet, foggy dawns. It is functional once the sun is up -- tens of thousands of people use it for washing themselves, their laundry, their herds and theirs sins. It is eerie and infinitesimal at night when the shadowy electric lights cast only so far out into the darkness of the water.

There are a lot of strange sights to be seen in Varanasi. At one ghat, in one moment, on any given day: pilgrims, goats, donkeys, ascetics, beggars, Japanese tourists, juggling Euro-hippies, holy men, fake holy men, children selling candles, military police, cows, newlyweds, monkeys, so many flowers, so many fires, so many bathers, so much shit, so much music, modesty, nudity, anger, humility, mourning, jubilee, heartfelt professions, Americans on itineraries, Koreans with germ masks, funeral pires, babies jumping in the water...


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Right now it is late and I am in an internet cafe that closed 15 minutes ago. So, I just did the unthinkable and added a "part I" to the title. I realize that this will be the second "part I" without followup. pictures and more about Varanasi will come...and same for Kashmir...not sure when!